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The CO-OP Country Round Up Is our bi-monthly publication. The CO-OP Country Round Up is more We hope you enjoy the read and are inspired
If you would like more information Responsible Weed Management and Long term weed control can be every landowner’s goal but it comes with risks. Most modern herbicides, which result in more than one year of control, involve residues in the organic matter that’s sprayed. This includes hay, straw, turf grass clippings and surface vegetative materials that were treated. Herbicide treatments of some products can control certain species of plants, when conditions permit, for 2 or more years. Farmer’s enjoy long term control because it reduces application cost, herbicides used, and less exposure to the environment. It also provides clean weed free hay to buyers, can increase land values and prevent poisoning of livestock from toxic plants. Decomposition of most herbicides usually takes place by direct sunlight exposure, dilution by soil depth, water quantity, soil acids and bacteria, as well as the vegetation treated. The toughest question is always, "how long does this take?" The annoying answer is, "that depends on all the circumstances". Usually if all decomposition factors are present the herbicide presence will be shorter and vice-versa the fewer factors involved. As with most things in today’s world, there are positive and negative consequences involved with the use of herbicides or any pesticide, gasoline, oil, asphalt, cars, roads, and almost everything else mankind does. Probably the most important risk in using herbicides is the residue for multiple years of control. Herbicide residues are retained in all organic matter sprayed until that vegetation decomposes or sunlight exposure etc. breaks down those compounds. Forage crops and animal manure from treated hay or pasture could retain the herbicides for 2 or more years in many situations. This can be a hazardous situation if these things are used in a garden or flower bed. Most commonly used herbicides used in our area are not harmful to mammals, birds, fish or creatures other than plants. If people want more weed free manure, straw or compost for gardening purposes, they should ask the supplier about their spraying history. Rarely do herbicide residues last more than 3 years from the application date in our area in enough quantity to injure any other plants. You can test the materials for residue concerns by planting sensitive seeds in a flower pot to observe growth consequences. Herbicide residues in hay or manure are the responsibility of the "supplier and the purchaser or user". Herbicide labels usually explain expected residue risks related to harvesting forage treated and use of animal manures or turf composting. Usually few people using these compounds read the entire label or remember there are risks involved with treated products. It’s also very difficult to determine who is at fault for any consequences. Everyone must share this responsibility for everyone to get quality products for practical advantages. Most landowners realize that weed control can seem like a never ending process. This situation is primarily caused by long term seed life of problem species. We can pull, plow, spray, and cut these weeds for years and they keep coming back! You only eliminate a weed problem by stopping all seed production of current growth and for the life of the seeds in the soil, which is usually ten to sixty years. Desirable plant competition can be very effective management if it’s continued long enough. Good management strategies provide the best weed control at the least cost to everyone. Preventing homeowners from getting herbicide residue in the manure or composting is best accomplished by good record keeping. Hay fields can be treated in the fall to best reduce significant residues in the following year’s crop. Pastures sprayed then grazed will definitely have residues in the manure of animals when stock piled for probably three years. Livestock eating treated pastures will pass the residues through their system in 3 days after being removed from those pastures. Hay that has not been sprayed the same season of harvest will not have residues in it. You can see that the first year of treatments create the highest risk of residues. Baled hay, manure piles and turf composting piles that have been treated with long term herbicides may hold those residues for three years or until they finally get mixed in the soil where they break down in one season. Anyone using materials unknown to herbicide treatments should mix that manure or compost material into the soil in the fall, not spring, to break down compounds and dilute them below harmful levels prior the next growing season. Land managers and homeowners can profit much more by having weed free crops for extended periods of time. Clean crops prevent humans from spreading devastating weed problems in wildlife areas and across our whole nation! Remember that weed control is managing human caused plant problems from other parts of the world. Let’s all work together managing weeds! LOCAL FOODS AND WHERE TO FIND THEM The following small farms can all be found right in your neighborhood. If you find something that really tickles your fancy or you want to sign up for a CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) call the farmer or visit your nearest Farmer’s Market and start eating local. Also, visit www.localharvest.org and post your farm for others to see what you produce. Over the last 20 years, Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) has become a popular way for consumers to buy local, seasonal food directly from a farmer. Here are the basics: a farmer offers a certain number of "shares" to the public. Typically the share consists of a box of vegetables, but other farm products may be included. Interested consumers purchase a share (aka a "membership" or a "subscription") and in return receive a box (bag, basket) of seasonal produce each week throughout the farming season. ● Angela & Millie (Sandpoint ID) goat milk & cheese 208-263-3343 & 208-610-0694 ● Annie’s Orchard (Clark Fork ID) fresh produce, Clark Fork Farmer’s Market - Terry & Carol Chowning 208-266-1571 www.anniesorchard.com ● Bristow Country Gardens (Sagle ID) fresh produce & flowers - Garry & Susan Bristow 208-290-8642 ● Black Ridge Ranch & Gardens (Priest River ID) goat milk, meat, cheese, eggs, berries, vegetables & herbs Barry & Lana Peterson 208-265-0585 ● Bountiful Organics (Sagle ID) CSA, certified organic vegetables, fruit, flowers, herbs - Pat Van Volkinburg 208-263-7740 - 20% discount for Seniors ● Bonners Ferrys Farmer’s Market (Bonners Ferry ID) 8am-1pm. Saturday at the Visitor Center on Hwy 95 - Michael Powers 208-267-9312 ● Cascade Creek Farm (Bonners Ferry ID) free range beef, pork, chicken - Rob & Mimi Fueling 208-267-1325 www.cascadecreekfarm.com ● Celestial Natural Farms (Careywood ID) CSA, veg. baskets, rabbits, eggs, pasture poultry, heritage turkey, beef, fresh produce & plants. Celeste Ricci 208-683-9474 Celestial Natural Farms on Facebook & become a friend of the farm Celestialnaturalfarms@yahoo.com ● Clear Skies Sheep Company (Bonners Ferry ID) lamb, pigs, chickens, beef - Lou & Marva Maring 208-267-6107 www.clearskiessheepcompany.com ● Country Haven (Athol ID) Grass fed beef & home grown pigs - Max Jenkins 208-818-0126 ● Double Shoe Ranch (Dover ID) Katahdin lambs pasture raised, Randy & Gail Curless 208-263-4633 ● Farm to Market and Bakery (Libby MT) produce & meat- Leona Mast 406-293-9775 ● Farmers Market at Sandpoint, Farming Park, 3d & Oak Street, Sandpoint, ID 83864 Wednesday, 3:00 p.m.-5:30 p.m., Saturday, 9:00 a.m.-12:00 noon ● Frank, Coleman & Carolyn (Sagle ID) home grown pork 208-265-8681 ● Four Seasons Farm (Priest River ID) produce, pasture pork, fresh eggs, chicken, goat, beef & turkey - Ron & Toni Carey 208-448-2089 cell 255-9193 ● Freeman Farms (Sandpoint ID) Rabbit - Julie Morefield 208-263-7693● Galloway, Tonii (Clark Fork ID) Rabbit, chickens, goat milk & meat 208-266-1201 ● The Gardens of Bill & Lisa Shock (Cocolalla ID) berries, Vegetables, herbs fresh eggs & herbal tinctures -Lisa Shock 208 265-0512 ● God’s Little Acre (Carreywood ID) All natural grass fed beef, Berkshire pigs, free range chickens, heritage turkeys & fresh eggs - Susan Bourguignon 208-683-2907 or 208-659-6270 ● Good Hope Gardens (Sandpoint/Sunnyside ID) CSA, fresh vegetables and flowers Ali Hakala 208-255-8666 ● Granite Lake Goats (Libby MT) goat meat, chicken & eggs Amy Hughes 406-293-9780 ● Greentree Naturals (Sandpoint ID) certified organic farm, flowers, eggs, produce, poultry & CSA - Diane Green www.greentreenaturals.com 208-236-8957 ● Greenspirit Nursery (Priest River ID) Plants & produce - Maggie & Greg Firey - 208-448-0185 ● Harvey Honey Farm (Clark Fork ID) CSA, raw honey, beeswax & candles, - Andrea Hudson 208-597-5433 ● Heritage Farms (Cocolalla ID) free range chicken, beef, eggs, milk shares - Wilbur & Luana Hiebert 208-683-4410 ● Hershy Farms (Clark Fork ID) strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, cherry, apple, peach, plum, & pear - Jay Hershberger 208-266-0585 ● Hope Farmers Market - runs every Friday 3 pm - 6 pm at the Hope Memorial Community Center, Hwy 200 & Centennial Rd. ● Hubbard, Michael (Bonners Ferry ID) Apples & peaches 208-267-9049 ● Huckleberry Homestead (Clark Fork ID) pasture pigs & broilers, eggs, berries, vegetables, rabbit - Timothy & Christine Dick www.huckleberrytentandbreakfast.com 208-266-0155 ● Hutto’s Heritage Farm (Clark Fork ID) vegetables, pork, poultry - Eddie & Rosanne Hutto - HuttosHeritageFarm@gmail.com J & M Farms (Athol ID) Poultry butcher service, easy access Judy 208-819-2781 ● Libby Creek Heritage Farm (Libby MT) livestock, produce, herbs, pasture poultry & CSA - Christina Rublee 406-293-7553 ● Livingood Tree Farm (Dover ID) Fruit, herbs, vegetables - William Gadsby - 208-265-9269 ● Lone Pine Gardens (Priest River ID) raspberries, fruits, sweet corn, potatoes, melons, & misc vegetables Nephi White 208-448-1145Mary Taylor (Sandpoint ID) poultry butcher May-Aug., beef, poultry, produce 208-263-4725 ● M&M Farms (Athol ID) goat milk, poultry butchering service, Misty Saganski - 208-683-2419, ● McKerracher Family Farm (Careywood ID) pasture poultry - Julie McKerracher 208-683-3513 ● Moose Valley Farm (Naples ID) Vegetable starts, fruit trees, flowers, etc. Mary Kimball 208-267-5108 ● Mountain Glen Farm LLC (Sagle ID) Rabbits, pigs, & goats - Susan & Bob Lesniewski 208-255-7818 www.mtglenfarm.com ● Nature’s Way Organic Farm (Sagle ID) Tomatoes, Basil, and other herbs, fresh produce & cut flowers -Todd Anderson 208-255-7234 ● Nemes Family Farm (Trout Creek MT) Rabbit & fresh eggs - Jeff & Lori Nemes 406-827-3998 ● Noxon Montana Farmer’s Market, Bicentennial Park, 179 Railroad Rd., June – October Saturday, 10:00 a.m.- 2:00 p.m. ● Pack River Yaks (Sandpoint ID) Yak meat & fiber - Christine Stoneham 208-263-4785 ● Paradise Valley Organics (Bonners Ferry ID) CSA, Organic breads, tea blends, herbal vinegars, jams, eggs & flowers - Sora Huff 208-267-7987 ● Ranch of the Rising Sun (Clark Fork ID) grass fed beef, pork, garden produce George & Diane Newcomer 208-266-1336 ● Raven Rock Ranch (Libby MT) grass fed beef, eggs & hay - Georgine Powers 406-293-6771 ● Red Wheelbarrow Produce (Sandpoint ID) naturally grown produce - Emily L - 208-265-2689 ● Riley Creek Farms (Laclede ID) blueberries, jams, vinegars, vegetables, raspberries & strawberries - Stan Urmann 208-263-4114 ● Riley Creek Ranch (Laclede ID) fresh eggs - Joel & Glenda Risch 208-255-1973 ● Ronnigers Potato Farm (Moyie Springs ID) vegetables, potatoes, cabbage (red & green), beets, carrots, black radishes, shallots, onions, garlic, leeks, jerusalem artichokes, apples, pears, seed potatoes, onion starts - David & Simon Ronniger (208)267-1477 ● Rowe’s Nest Organics (Sandpoint ID) vegetables, herbs, corn, almonds - Randolph & Madelen Rowe - 208-263-2957 ● Sacred Earth Farm (Sandpoint ID) vegetables & bedding plants - Martinsen & Higgens - 208-263-7647 ● Sandpoint Farmers Market 9am-1pm Sat., Wed. 3pm-5:30pm. Farmin Park 3rd & Main (the market always opens 1st Sat. in May and ends the 2nd Sat. in Oct.) ● Sandypine Farm LLC (Naples ID) fresh eggs, broilers, goat milk & cheese -Kim Peterson 208-627-8418 ● Sandy Ridge Ranch (Sandpoint ID) grass fed goat - Jeff & Jolene Stewart 208-255-1390 ● The Selkirk Ranch (Sandpoint ID) certified organic grass fed beef, hay, chickens, eggs - Chip Lawrence www.theselkirkranch.com 208-255-7093 ● Shepherds Harvest Family Farm (Bonners Ferry ID) free range lamb, turkey, chickens, organic eggs, vegetables - Lisa & Mike Whytock 208-818-7825 www.shepherdsharvestfamilyfarm.com ● Six Rivers Market (Sandpoint ID) Local food Co-Op - www.sixriversmarket.org ● Solstice Farm (Bonners Ferry ID) CSA, certified organic, fruits, vegetables, flowers, herbs - Mitch Rivkin & Colleen Mooney- 208-267-7580 ● Soyboy Farms (Careywood ID) fresh edible edamame soy beans and vegetables - Jim & Barbara Johnson 831-521-1091 ● Spencer Farm (Cocolalla ID) Vegetables, grass fed beef, homemade bread, eggs - Vern & Amy Spencer - 208-265-3681 ● Stormy Acres Garden (Sandpoint ID) vegetables - Kirk DeHaan 208-265-8517 ● Sungreens (Priest River ID) Vegetables & Hay - Raymond Van Dertteijdea - 208-443-8413 ● T&T Farm (Priest River ID) fresh produce, vegetable plant starts, eggs, hay, raspberries - Vickie & Darwin Tenney 208-448-2414 ● Thompson Falls Market (Thompson Falls MT) Saturday 9am - 1pm, 112 Lincoln Street (corner of Maiden Lane & Lincoln, Katrina Wright 406-827-3559 ● Tom’s Garden & Nursery (Sagle ID) fresh eggs, heirloom tomato starts, organic vegetable starts and vegetables. In June Tom & Joe’s Farm Stand opens offering oganic in season vegetables - Tom Bry 208-263-8865 www.tomsnursery.com ● Victory Farm (Sagle ID) Rabbit & eggs - Julia Thompson 208-946-3665 ● Wildwood Farm (Careywood ID) lamb, turkeys - Sarah Depew 208-610-6216 ● Winding Circle Organic Farm (Priest River ID) heirloom vegetables, herbs, fruit, garden starts, herbal tonics, tinctures, infused culinary oils, vinegars, pasture chicken, pork, milk & eggs. Jim & Kim DesJarlais 208-448-2972 ● Windrush Farm (Sagle ID) CSA, Certified Organic fruits, vegetables, eggs - Doug Schabell 208-610-3388 or 208-265-7987 ● Wheyward Goat Cheese Co. (Priest River ID) Goat Cheese - Susanne Wimberley - email - usanne@wheywardgoatcheese.com
CHICK DAYS AT THE CO-OP COUNTRY STORE WE GET OUR CHICKS FROM DUNLAP HATCHERY OUT OF CALDWELL IDAHO 208-459-9088. For orders larger than 25 chicks, call the hatchery and place your order directly with them, and they will mail the chicks to you. WE WILL HAVE THE FOLLOWING CHICKS FOR SALE IN APRIL 2012! Rhode Island Reds One of our most popular breeds, the Rhode Islands will not disappoint the grower. Developed in the early 1900’s, they are very tame layers of brown eggs. They have good feed conversion and will lay for a very long time. Chicks are a rusty brown color. Barred Plymouth Rocks Used as a dual-purpose bird, the Barred Rock is an old fashioned breed with a good laying capability. Eggs are brown and of good size. Chicks are mostly black with a white splotch on the top of their head. Austra White Austra Whites are a cross between a Black Australorp and a White leg- horn. They are a breed that was developed by Dunlap hatchery in the early 1900’s. They are an excellent layer of off white eggs. They are a heavier bird and a lot less flighty then a straight leghorn. Golden Sex Link This is our best brown egg layer. Imported originally from the Netherlands, this strain is used in over 60 countries worldwide. Capable of laying over 300 strong shelled eggs per year, the Golden Sex Link also know as the Bovan Brown is a very hearty bird that can withstand cold temperatures. When hatched, the males are a creamy white with the females colored in shades of red. Black Sex Link Also known as the Bovan Nera, these birds are also exceptionally good layers of brown eggs. The hens are mostly black with red coloring primarily around the neck. Males are black and white barred similarly to the coloring of a Barred Rock. Buff Orpingtons Should you want a large bird that lays brown eggs and is also a good setter, the Buff Orpington is a good choice. Brought from England, these buff colored birds have excellent plumage and make wonderful show birds. White Plymouth Rock Available at Dunlap’s since 1918, the White Rock is one of the best dual-purpose breeds used for both meat and eggs. They are fast growing and are very disease resistant. Chicks are yellow with gray shaded legs. Black Australorps The Australorp has been available at Dunlap Hatchery since we began business. Our strain is a pure strain that has developed over the years into one fine layer. Imported originally from Australia as a dual-purpose breed, the Australorp set a world record laying 364 eggs in 365 days. Although they are black in color, when their feathers are touched by sunshine, you will see shades of green reflecting from their plumage. chicks are mostly black with a white coloring on their underbelly. White Leghorns With the best feed conversion and the highest producer of large white eggs, the White Leghorn is the bird for those who want the most eggs at the least cost. We use both the Babcock and the Bovan strains of leghorns at our farm to insure you the best commercial or backyard bird available. Brown Leghorns The single combed variety. The roosters are very colorful, while the hens are excellent producers of white eggs Assorted Ducks - Blue Swedish, Buff, Cayuga, Indian Runner, Khaki Campbell, Mallard, Rouen, White Pekin Assorted Geese - African, Embdem, Toulouse, White Chinese Turkey - Large Breasted Bronze and Large Breasted White Meat Birds - White Cornish Cross fast grower.
Predator Action on My Farm My flock of 15 chickens and 16 ducks have been settling down nicely for the winter snow and cold. They have their snuggly camp trailer all decked out with a heat lamp, soft shavings on the floor and roosts, but the silly chickens prefer to hang out in tops of the greenhouse. Of course I cannot blame them. They were recent witnesses to some bloody battles with one or more hungry predators who invaded their large fenced chicken yard during the first big snow storm in November. It all started when I noticed my big bossy buff orpington rooster, he ruled the roost with an iron fist, was looking a little disheveled one morning when I went out to feed everyone. When I checked him over, he had a bloody neck and it looked like he had been fighting with another bird, which he sometimes did. He tormented the ducks from time to time and I figured a few of my male ducks might have ganged up on the bossy rooster and put him in his place. Additionally, my bossy rooster was the personal body guard to my female turkey. He loved and protected her. The following morning around 3 am I woke up with a start and had a feeling I should go out and check my birds. I first checked the chicken camp trailer, nothing unusual. Then I looked into my 8’x8’ hoop house shelter that the birds seemed to prefer. My flashlight showed blood splattered on the tarp wall and something buried in the shavings. Some birds were missing from their usual spot on the roost and other birds were wondering around out in the chicken yard looking a little dazed. With my boot, I moved the shavings to uncovered whatever was buried there. I found the body of my bossy rooster. His head was missing, as I searched further, I found his head also buried in the shavings. I brought my livestock guardian dogs into the chicken yard and had them check everything out. The dogs seemed concerned about what had happened. The turkey was discovered in the far corner of the chicken yard. She had blood splattered on her and it looked as if something had been nibbling on her wings, but otherwise she appeared in good health. In the fresh deep snow there were some prints, but I could not identify them. When daylight arrived, I checked over my dead rooster to see if I could find any clues. He was not eaten, just had his head bitten off and buried. I didn’t know what type of predator did something like this. Because the chicken yard is all fenced and my livestock guardian dogs are out all night, I assumed the predator had to be a weasel, because nothing else could get through. I set up a hav-a-hart weasel trap and called it good. The following evening I lost another bird, this time my favorite araucana hen. I once again brought the dogs in and my St. Bernard pup found the hen mostly eaten and semi buried under the chicken camp trailer. Now it was war. I was going to fix this problem with my heavy artillery. The dogs were going to stay the night in the chicken yard. A few months ago the last of my Great Pyrenees livestock guardian dogs passed away. My new livestock guardian dogs are my daughter’s 3 year old German short haired pointer and my 9 month old St. Bernard. Definitely the odd couple of livestock guardian dogs, but never the less, they are really good with the birds and cows. The next evening, the 2 dogs went into the chicken pen and I figured they would be a nice surprise to whatever predator was after my birds. During the evening I heard the dogs barking occasionally and figured they were doing their job. In the morning when I checked on everyone, the birds were looking really happy about having the dogs in with them. The dogs on the other hand wanted to get out right now. I noticed my St. Bernard pup had some marks on his neck, like something had been nibbling on him. He is an 80 lb dog and I figured he was wrestling too hard with my female pointer, and maybe got a few tooth marks. I put the dogs in the chicken yard once again the following night. The dogs barked occasionally through the night, nothing unusual. In the morning when I checked on everyone, the dogs bolted out as fast as they could. My St. Bernard had a bloody neck and the pointer seemed scared. These same two dogs wouldn’t think twice about moving a moose out of the yard, but something in the chicken yard put some fear into them. I checked my dog’s bloody neck as he whined, cried and put up quite a tussle. It looked like either teeth or claws had made puncture wounds on the back of his neck in an area larger than my hand. I double checked his vaccine records and his rabies was up to date. I cleaned his wounds and realized I really needed help now with this unknown predator who kills chickens and attacks my dog. When I went to work the next day at The Co-Op, I mentioned my problem to Kathy Osborne and she said to call Shane Robinson who works for Idaho Wildlife Services. Wildlife Services helps farmers and landowners with large predators such as bear, lions, wolf, etc. who are bothering or killing livestock and/or threatening people. Shane came to my farm and listened to my story. He had me show him the chicken yard and the surrounding area. I attempted to show him my dog’s neck, but the dog would have none of that. The dog acted like he was afraid Shane would bite him. After looking the place over and hearing the facts, Shane concluded that the predator must be a raccoon. The burying, biting off heads, and attacking my dog, was the work of a raccoon. Shane said from the look of my dog, the raccoon probably got beat up pretty good and shouldn’t be back. He left me a live raccoon trap and showed me how to set it up and where to place it for the best success. If the dog looked chewed up, the raccoon is probably in worse condition. Shane was right on. After 1 1/2 weeks nothing has dared to come around. The dog is completely healed now and seems more confident then he was in the past. I really appreciate Shane Robinson and Idaho Wildlife Services for helping me solve my weird predator puzzle. If any of the Round Up readers need help with large predators, bear, lions, wolves, etc. you can call 208-769-1414.
Gardeners Association News January is a time for renewal, planning, and high hopes for gardeners everywhere. The Bonner County Gardeners Association will continue its mission of providing science backed information to help local gardeners achieve better results with garden endeavors, and to contribute to the community through special projects and service. The popular Home Horticulture series of classes will continue in the spring, with a number of topics to be announced later. The BCGA will again plant the colorful city baskets that adorn downtown in summer. A booth at the Home and Garden Show in April will feature members providing tips for better gardening. The annual garden tour gives citizens an opportunity to view exceptional area home horticultural practices. We plan to provide more support to the students at gardens that have appeared at several local schools and to help maintain the lovely Healing Garden adjacent to the hospital. Members will be present at the Farmers Market to provide information and answer questions pertaining to plant health and maintenance, and a booth staffed by members at the County Fair in August will provide resources to answer questions about gardening. For additional information about the Bonner County Gardening Association, visit our website at www.bcgardeners.org. FUN WINTER PROJECTS Winter is long in the Idaho Panhandle, and the green thumb is itchy for something to do besides wait for spring. Do not despair, here are a couple of ideas that can help dispel the winter blues. (A) Take cuttings from overwintered plants. If you have brought in a fuchsia or geranium to survive on the windowsill, you can propagate additional plants from this specimen for a richer display next summer. 1) You will need a clean, disinfected 3" or 4" pot for each new plant. Wash the pot, and soak it in a 10% bleach solution for a few minutes, then allow it to dry. 2) Fill the pot with moistened good quality potting soil. 3) With a clean sharp knife or scissors, prune back the parent plant to improve its overall shape. 4) Look at the part you have removed—it should have several nodes where leaves are or were attached. Remove the leaves from the bottom nodes, and all but a couple of the smaller leaves from the tip. 5) With a pencil, poke a hole in the potting soil that is slightly larger than the stem of the cutting, then insert the cutting, making sure that at least one node is covered. 6) Firm the soil around the stem, water to settle the stem into the soil, then place the pot and new plant in a plastic bag and tie the top of the bag loosely, allowing some air to circulate while maintaining humidity. 7) Set the new plant on the windowsill and watch for new growth. The plant will have to regenerate roots, so it may take some time before new leaf growth appears. When the plant has added several new leaves, remove the plastic bag and water occasionally to maintain sufficient moisture. (B) Another fun winter project is to start a compost worm bin. 1) You will need a square plastic bin that holds at least five gallons. Remove the lid from the container, and use it to catch any excess moisture that may come from the composting process by placing it under the bin. 2) Drill 1/8th inch drainage holes in the bottom and sides of the bin. 3) Tear strips of newspaper, soak them in water, then wring out and put them in the bin—to a depth of several inches. This will be the bedding material for the worms. 4) Add a handful of soil or compost to the bedding. 5) Add red compost worms. These are not earthworms. If you know someone who has compost worms, perhaps that person will share some with you to get started. Red worms can also be purchased. 6) Feed the worms. Kitchen waste is what they like. Vegetable and fruit scraps, egg shells, bread products, coffee grounds are all yummy for worms. Do not use meat, bones, fats or dairy products. You may freeze the waste to help it break down faster, then add it to the bedding in the bin. 7) Keep the bin in an area that will not freeze—worms like the temperature to be between 55 and 75 degrees. 8) Monitor the bin for adequate moisture. Now, just watch the "garbage" turn into compost. Be sure to keep adding new food once or twice a week. The worms will reproduce and become more and more effective over time. 9) To harvest compost, move the finished material to one side of the bin and add new bedding and scraps to the other side. The worms will migrate to the new food source and you can then remove the finished compost and use it to enrich house plants or outdoor gardens. Happy worm farming!
The Surprising Satisfactions of a Home Funeral Two funerals, two days apart, two grandfathers of my two sons. When my father and father-in-law died in the space of 17 days in late 2007, there wasn’t a lot of time to ruminate on the meaning of it all. My wife, Sarah, and I were pretty busy making all the preperations. Mostly we had to deal with a couple of cold bodies. In life both men had been devout Catholics. One was buried, one was cremated. One was embalmed, one wasn’t. One had a typical American funeral-home cotillion; one was laid out at home in a homemade coffin. What I really want to share is that dead bodies are perfectly OK to be around, for a while. For all our desire to possess this tangible evidence of a life once lived, we’ve become oddly squeamish about our dead. We pay an average of $6,500 for a funeral, not including cemetery costs, in part so we don’t have to deal with the physical reality of death. That’s 13 percent of the median American family’s annual income. Most people in the world don’t spend 13 percent of anything on dead bodies, even once in a while. How we Westerners have arrived at this state is a long story—you can start with the Civil War, which is when modern embalming was developed—but the story is changing. A movement toward home after-death care has convinced thousands of Americans to deal with their own dead. A nonprofit organization called Crossings (www.crossings.net) maintains that besides saving lots of money, home after-death care is greener than traditional burials—bodies pumped full of carcinogenic chemicals, laid in metal coffins in concrete vaults under chemically fertilized lawns—which mock the biblical concept of "dust to dust." But more significant, according to advocates, home after-death care is also more meaningful for the living. I wasn’t sure exactly why that would be, but Sarah, her sisters and their mother were intrigued. Bob, her dad had brain cancer and was nearing the end. In hospice care at his home in Maine near our own, he wasn’t able to participate in the conversations about his funeral, but earlier he had made it clear that he didn’t want a lot of money spent on it. Sarah hooked up with a local support group for home after-death care. We watched a documentary film called A Family Undertaking, which profiles several home funerals around the country. So a few weeks before Bob died, my 15-year-old son, Harper, and I made a coffin out of plywood and deck screws from Home Depot. I know that sounds cheesy, but it was nice hardwood veneer, and we applied a veneer edging for a finished look. We routed rabbet joints for a tight construction. "I guess we wouldn’t want him falling out the bottom," Harper said. "That would reflect poorly on our carpentry skills," I agreed. We rubbed linseed oil into the wood for a deep burnish, then, as a final touch, made a cross of cherry for the lid. Total cost: $90.98. Sarah learned that Maine does not require embalming—a recognition that under normal circumstances human remains do not pose a public health risk (nor do they deteriorate visibly) for a few days after death. When Bob died, on a cold evening in late November, Sarah, her sister Holly and I gently washed his body with warm water and lavender oil as it lay on the portable hospital bed in the living room. (Anointing a body with aromatic oils, which moisten the skin and provide a calming atmosphere for the living, is an ancient tradition.) I had been to plenty of funerals and seen many a body in the casket, but this was the first time I was expected to handle one. I wasn’t eager to do so, but after a few minutes it seemed like second nature. His skin remained warm for a long time—maybe an hour—then gradually cooled and turned pale as the blood settled. We had to tie his jaw shut with a bandanna for several hours until rigor mortis set in, so his mouth would not be frozen open; the bandanna made him look like he had a toothache. We worked quietly and deliberately, partly because it was all new to us but mainly out of a deep sense of purpose. Our work offered the chance to reflect on the fact that he was really gone. It wasn’t Bob, just his body. Later that night, with the help of a neighbor, we wrestled the coffin into the living room, filled it with cedar chips from the pet store and added several freezer packs to keep things cool. Then we lined it with a blanket and lay Bob inside. Movies always show bodies getting casually lifted like a 50-pound sack of grain; in real life (or death?), it strained four of us to move him. The next night we held a vigil. Dozens of friends and family trailed through the living room to view Bob, surrounded by candles and flowers. He looked unquestionably dead, but he looked beautiful. Harper and I received many compliments on our coffin. Later, when the wine flowed and the kitchen rang with laughter and Bob was alone again, I went in to see him. I was sad, but it also felt OK. We had an appointment at the crematorium (burning takes up to five hours, we learned), and loaded Bob’s coffin into the back of my pickup truck for delivery. His ashes, in an urn made by an artist friend, were still warm as Sarah wrote the check. We planned to scatter them over the Atlantic later. Then my dad died—suddenly, a thousand miles away, in Michigan. He lived alone, far from his three sons, who are spread from coast to coast. Home after-death care was out of the question; even if logistics had allowed it, my father had planned his funeral down to the clothes he would wear in his coffin and the music to be played at the service (Frank Sinatra’s "I’ll Be Seeing You"). The total cost was $11,287.83, including cemetery charges and various church fees. To read this article in its entirety visit: http://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/Presence-of-Mind-Which-Way-Out.html References: www.crossings.net/resourceguide030109.pdf (Free 53 page Resource Guide-A Manual for Home Funeral Care) www.eeternity.com— Cardboard Caskets/funeral alternatives. http://www.seattlepi.com/lifestyle/article/Outhouse-Charlie-makes-kits-for-do-it-yourself-1153874.php—Death with a smile www.funerals.org—Caring for your dead. http://fcai.fortboise.org--Idaho rights, Caring for your dead. Idaho Rules Persons and religious groups in Idaho may care for their own dead. The legal authority to do so is found in: Title 39-260: (re death registration )….the person in charge of interment or of removal of the body from the district shall be responsible for obtaining and filing the certificate. Title 54-1104: Exemptions from provisions of act (re licensing of morticians)… Any duly authorized representative of any religious or other association or organization honoring the dead who performs a funeral or other religious service….. There are no other statutes that might require you to use a funeral director. Death Certificate: The family doctor or local medical examiner will supply and sign the death certificate within 72 hours, stating the cause of death. Transporting and Disposition Permit: It is necessary to have a physician’s or coroner’s authorization before removing a body from the state. Burial: Home burial is permissible in Idaho. Check with the county or town clerk for local zoning. Other Requirements: Embalming is no longer required. Bodies transported by commercial carrier must be embalmed. Nonprofit Funeral Consumer Information Societies: The # in Boise is 208-426-0032
Tips for Livestock Care Following are highlights from a workshop featuring Hue Karreman, a holistic veterinarian from Pennsylvania, and Jim and Nancy Gardiner, dairy farmers from Otselic, New York. Comments about bovine usually apply to all species. You need six sows to produce enough to pay to maintain a boar over winter. A cover crop of peas, oats and barley works well. You can cut it with a scythe and feed it to pigs, or use it as pasture for poultry. Black hoofed animals have stronger hoofs. A cow produces seven to 11 manure piles per day, covering 7 to 11 square feet of pasture. Cows should produce manure as often as they eat. If they don’t, check their liver. A fluid extract (i.e., herbal tincture) is made by mixing 1 part herbal material (by weight) with 1 part grain alcohol. To control mange, use sulfur powder, pyrethrum powder or lime sulfur. Feed kelp for a shiny coat and fewer problems with lice and mange. To control ringworm, use a Betadine scrub, then apply tea tree oil externally. A cow with an S-shaped curve to its head, from neck to withers, is deficient in potassium. To control milk fever, give 2 ounces of apple cider vinegar twice a day for two weeks before calving. When doing an IV, hold the bottle no higher that the backbone. To control pink eye caused by eye trauma or flies, use tinctures of calendula, eyebright, euphrasia, and/or hypericum. A mixture of all four herbs in equal parts is best. As an alternative, buy a 3% boric acid ointment and mix it with water. Put powdered sugar on a sheep’s prolapsed uterus to shrink the uterus before pushing it in. To help reduce mastitis, dip cows’ teats two weeks after cows dry off and two weeks before they freshen. Mastitis caused by Aranobaterium pryogens is more common in summer and around flies and leaking milk. Panax ginseng given at 8mg/kg body weight for six days will increase the number of white blood cells and decrease Staphylococcus aureus infection and somatic cell counts. See J. Veterinary Medicine, p. 519, Sept. 2001. Use udder ointment containing mint (for increased circulation) for 48 hours maximum. Barley straw is a good copper source for sheep and goats. It may also help oxygenate ponds to reduce algae. Put one bale every 20 feet around the pond. It is important to maintain the correctly balanced intake of copper, zinc and calcium in sheep, according to National Research Council levels. Animals consume more minerals from loose minerals than from salt blocks. If you see ankle or joint problems, check for adrenal problems. When ingesting or giving Echinacea angustifolia, use capsicum as a catalyst to dilate cells and improve absorption. To treat for shock, put capsicum (cayenne) directly on the animal’s tongue. During a heat cycle, supplement the diet with selenium, zinc, copper, vitamins A, D and E, the herb Damiana, raspberry leaves (high in manganese, the "mothering mineral") and kelp. Provide vitamins and minerals according to label directions. Raspberry leaves (free choice) stimulate the reproductive system through high protein and vitamin E. Before calving, supplement the diet with zinc and kelp. Dandelions are great at this time; they provide a lot of protein and energy and can help control acidosis (too much acid in the rumen, usually due to high grain consumption). During freshening, blue cohosh helps dilate the cervix. Feed a cow 2 to 3 Tbsp. of the herbal powder at start of softening. Pennyroyal increases contractions. During postpartum, watch for milk fever. Symptoms include blue eye color and low body temperature. You often see a tongue protrusion when you touch the withers within the last third of gestation, if the cow has a retained placenta. To treat a retained placenta, within six hours of freshening give 4 Tbsp. slippery elm powder twice a day for 36 hours until the placenta comes out, then for one more day. If the placenta smells, give Damiana also. To maintain hoof health, supplement the diet with copper sulfate, biotin, vitamins A, D and B complex, and, for horses, fresh comfrey. Follow bottle directions for dosages. Treat hairy hoof warts with thyme oil and copper sulfate, then wrap the foot. Treat hoof rot by soaking the hoof in a solution of Epsom salts in clean water then wrapping the foot. You can also give, orally or as a poultice, goldenseal, Echinacea, cayenne, Pau D’arco. The latter is especially good for fungal infections. Garlic is antibiotic, antifungal and kills parasites. One or two fresh, bruised cloves work best, given orally right after milking. Give calves colostrum as soon as possible after birth and for three days, when the cows’ milk cannot be put in the milk tank; then feed them whole milk for 90 days. Supplement calves daily until they’re weaned with 1 Tbsp. black walnut hull powder (to fight bacteria and parasites), 1/2 tsp. ginger root powder, probiotics and vitamin B complex. Feed them the best balage, free choice, with no grain until they’re freshening. Good concentrations of soil calcium reduce parasite survival. A field with a lot of wild mustard indicates low calcium. Get a soil test. If you are new to keeping a cow, be aware that the rumen fills on the cow’s left side, so you know which side to check. Provide salt and kelp separately if your animals have any problems, so that they’ll be able to eat enough kelp. To treat Coccidia, supplement the diet with mined (not synthetic) colloidal minerals. Offer free choice or follow label directions. In older animals, clover blossoms in hay in February and March help keep the liver healthy and reduce lactic acid buildup. Give animals root medicines in winter and leaves in spring and summer. When giving tinctures to horses and cows, provide 30 cc two to three times per day. The dose for people is usually 40 drops or 3 cc in 4 ounces of water every 4 hours. Small grains ferment faster in the rumen, affecting digestion and nutrient availability. Birdsfoot trefoil reduces the fecal egg count of stomach and intestinal parasites; tannins and other chemicals in chicory reduce the adult intestinal worms. Putting a bag on the nose of a sheep or goat will make it urinate. The cayenne, garlic and diatomaceous product from Fertrell (www.fertrell.com/fertrellherbalpaste.htm), given daily for six weeks, reduced the fecal egg count in a Clemson University study. Visit www.mofga.org/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=%2FUPCHbJs8G4%3D&tabid=133 for the MOFGA Fact Sheet. |
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