CO-OP Country Store

The CO-OP Country Round Up


The CO-OP Country Round Up Is our bi-monthly publication.
                                                     

 The CO-OP Country Round Up is more
 than 9 years old. In its infancy we mostly
 gathered CO-OP related news and a few
 store ads for the 12 page publication.
 Since then, the Round Up has grown to 24
 pages and has become an excellent
 advertising vehicle for many businesses in the
 community. 

 Because our readers have asked for copies
of so many of the articles, we decided to
place them here on the Newsletter page
You may retrieve articles
begining November 2009.  

In the March issue we wrote about the
upcoming CO-OP Gas & Supply Annual
meeting. We also ran an article about CFL
light bulbs which turned out to be the most
popular article in the issue.

The Round Up accepts poems, short stories and trivia about the rural life and we have
 a very affordable advertising rate given that our distribution is 45,000 direct mailed
 pieces in North Idaho and Northwest  Montana. If you would like more information
 about advertising in the Round Up just email Kathy  at 
 
coopcountrystore@yahoo.com.

The following articles are from the  July2010 Round Up Issue

History Discovered When Past Meets Present
 by Kathy Osborne

I was sitting in what turned out to be a useless meeting in Coeur d’Alene when I was rescued by a call from one Dorothy Thompson. I did not recognize the number, or the name, but I called back anyway. I’m glad I did because Dorothy turned out to be a very special person.

Dorothy Schevenius Thompson. That name won’t mean much to very many people but it was an instant gold mine to me. Her father, Ernest Schevenius was instrumental in the creation of Grange Gas and Supply, later to become CO-OP Gas & Supply Co., Inc. Dorothy’s call had to do with the upcoming Annual Meeting of the CO-OP Gas & Supply. She planned to be there but she wanted it to be a surprise.

At the Annual meeting Chairman Dave Anderson gave the microphone over to Dorothy for a few moments and she told us about the past. She spoke of her father Ernest going to farmers all over north Idaho in the late 1920s to talk about the need for a cooperative. Dorothy would tag along.

Year after year Dorothy would listen to her father give his speech about the need for cooperation among farmers. She listened so intently that one day Ernest told her to get up and give the talk, which she did.

Finally, in 1934, the Grange Gas & Supply Company was born. It was a labor of love and the beginning commodity to be brought to market was eggs. During the depression many people had chickens and eggs were something they could sell to bring in a bit of much needed cash. But Ernest’s vision seems to have been much more about people than it was about making money.

During the depression years, Ernest once sent Dorothy to homes in the community to find out how many people lived in each one. Once he had the number he would butcher his own chickens, later swine, and beef in order to keep those families fed. His life was spent helping in the community and caring for the cooperative.

On March 13, 2010, Dorothy got to look out onto the CO-OP Annual Meeting capacity audience and marvel at the success her father’s dream had achieved. She told us "he would be proud."

Ray Delay, General Manager, and I set up a time to talk further with Dorothy and we were not disappointed. Her sharp memory and delightful method of story telling kept us mesmerized for over two hours. She told us that part of the Schevenius family property now belongs to the Woods Family, Woods Crushing and Hauling.

Dorothy talked about their family, how things were back (in the 1930s), what community life during the depression was like, and what it meant to her to be so close to her father. We talked about life, loss, family, community, and the CO-OP.

We hope to share more of this story with our readers in coming issues.

 

Medicine Cabinet Deceptions

By Gloria Gilbère, N.D., D.A.Hom., Ph.D., D.S.C., EcoErgonomist, Wholistic Rejuvenist
Are Dangerous Chemicals Lurking in Your or Your Parents Home?
"Antique Bottles found in a senior’s medicine cabinet"

In researching for information to include in my teaching, I ran across a report that found some very outdated bottles of medications. It included Tincture of Merthiolate that specifically states on the label it contains "Thimerosal Tincture"….a now known toxic ingredient that was included in many children’s vaccinations.

That article report set me on an investigative mission, since many of my clients are, let’s say, "In their golden years." Once my search for clues began, I was amazed what I found – clients still had old bottles of "the stuff" that had been sitting around for over 30 years.

I called a pharmacist to find out what age does to the potency of Merthiolate. He warned me that as it ages it actually becomes stronger and could potentially burn the skin; he didn’t mention that it contained Thimerosal, a preservative containing mercury. Since Merthiolate is used as a common skin antiseptic, my findings are important to report to you.

If you, or someone you know, still have old bottles of Merthiolate collecting dust in their medicine cabinet, alert them of the dangers of use and improper disposal – don’t just toss in the trash. Contact your local waste management because anything containing mercury is considered hazardous waste according to the EPAs Universal Waste Rules.

Historical Perspective

Mercury was a commonly used ingredient in skin antiseptics prior to 1999 – and used as a preservative in vaccines. Mercury is still found in some vaccines, eye drops and nasal formulas.

According to the Environmental Working Group (EWG), "Given everything we’ve learned over the past 30 years about mercury’s ability to damage brain function, among other disorders, at even low levels, it’s hard to believe it’s still used, even in cosmetics; but, it is."

In The Blink of an Eye [I’ve provided graphic if you choose to use it]

I’m providing a specific example below so readers can begin the process of investigating toxic substance they may not be aware of – Read Labels!

The investigative search by EWG discovered that Paula Dorf mascara, listed "Thimerosal" as the mercury preservative. Just consider the consequences if a little mascara gets in your eyes or face when it clumps or as it’s washed off.

Paula Dorf Cake Mascara ingredients for Foxy, according to EWG investigative reports are listed below:

Ingredients on packaging: STEARIC ACID, TRIETHANOLAMINE, BEESWAX, SHELLAC, PVP/HEXADECENE COPOLYMER, CYCLOMETHICONE, PROPYLPARABEN, BUTYLPARABEN, THIMEROSAL, MAY CONTAIN: IRON OXIDES

Ingredients in this product are linked to:

• Cancer

• Developmental/reproductive toxicity

• Cognitive disorders

• Allergies/immuno-toxicity

• Other concerns for ingredients used in this product include:

Neurotoxicity, Endocrine disruption, Persistence and Bioaccumulation, Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive), Multiple-additive exposure sources, Irritation (skin, eyes, or lungs), Contamination concerns, Occupational hazards, Biochemical or Cellular level changes.

Ingredients in the following products are linked to the same disorders as those listed above during EWG investigation.

Examples of products containing Thimerosal:

Antibiotics for the Eye Cortisporin® Ophthalmic Suspension Neosporin® Ophthalmic Solution, Nasal Preparations, Nasal Moist® AF Neo-Synephrine® Pediatric Formula, Mild Formula, Regular Strength, and Extra Strength Nasal Spray

Ear Preparations Coly-mycin® S Otic Cortisporin® Otic Suspension Pediotic® Suspension

Cosmetics L’Oreal® Miracle Wear Mascara Stagelight® Mascara

Vaccines Hep-B-Gammagee®, Recombivax HB®, Hyper-Tet®

Tetanus and diphtheria

It’s challenging, but possible, to live healthy in a world intent of bombarding us with toxic ingredients – many not disclosed. Keep in mind that the only way we can prevent or reverse disorders is by employing my mantra that there is only "Health through Education©," naturally.

Your Partner in Health,Dr. Gloria

Financial Peace University:
A Path for Becoming Debt Free for Life
 by Kathy Osborne

Finances can be difficult to manage when the economy is going well. In hard times, it is a necessity. Managing money is all about discipline and understanding that if you want to live like nobody else in the future, then you have to live like nobody else in the present. The money you make today, well invested, will allow you to do the things you hope for in the future. But it takes time and commitment. That’s where Financial Peace University comes in. Financial Peace University is a Dave Ramsey program designed to help people get out of debt, save money for emergencies, invest for the future, and learn to be giving while establishing wealth, no matter what condition your finances are in today. Scores of people in this area, including this writer, have taken the class with great success.

A new Financial Peace University class is beginning soon at Cedar Hills Church. The class will meet for 13 weeks with a two hour class each week. The class will cover all areas of personal finance. You will learn how to get out of debt, how to budget, how to shop for bargains, and how to invest among other skills. You will not be asked to share any private financial information but private, confidential counseling can be arranged.

When: Thursday September 9, 2010 6:30 PM
Where: Cedar Hills Church, McGhee Road, Kootenai
Cost: $89.00 per family unit (parents and teens living at home.
Cedar Hills will cover the cost of shipping and handling.
Payment Method: Cedar Hills allows you to pay as you can
          over the 13 weeks of the class.
Childcare: It will be provided
Registration: Online at daveramsey.com
By email at
vbpb@supersat2.net
Sunday mornings at Cedar Hills Church Lobby
By calling the Cedar Hills Office at 208-265-8500

 

Natural Flea Remedies
www.earthclinic.com/Pets/fleas.html

Did you know that a flea could jump 100 times its own height? Did you also know that just one female flea will produce 20,000 eggs in a period of only three months?’ Lastly, did you know that it can take anywhere from three to six weeks for flea eggs to hatch? Now that’s definitely some eye opening, yet frightening flea trivia!

The pests in question are tiny, brown, wingless insects that survive on the blood of your pet. Unfortunately once they have found that food source they are very difficult to get rid of. Any of you who have been faced with the regrettable task of dealing with fleas truly know how trying it can be, and how incredibly quickly the problem can spread to other pets and to your home.

So first let’s talk about a couple of ways in which we can prevent flea problems for our pets altogether. The addition of Garlic to every one of our dog’s meals will help to keep them free of fleas, as will the addition of Sulphur to their diet on a once a week basis. You can also try giving your pet Black Walnut Hulls that come in a capsule form at many health food stores which will repel not only fleas but also, ticks and mosquitoes. Keep in mind that none of these solutions will work overnight and may take about four to six weeks before they are effective.

If you suspect that your pet does have a flea infestation examine the animal closely by separating the hair on the animals back or flank area. You want to be able to view the skin of the animal as well as possible and it will always be easier to detect fleas on those pets that have a lighter skin tone. During your search you might actually be able to see a flea scurrying by, but more likely you will see the evidence that the flea has left behind. Flea dirt (or feces) will appear as small, black pebbles in the fur and on the skin. To determine whether or not what you see is actually flea dirt, take some wet paper towel and wipe it over areas where the dirt is most prominent. If the dirt on the wet paper towel has dissolved into red blood then you can bet that you are indeed dealing with a flea problem.

Now let’s get down to bathing your flea infested friend. Use an herbal shampoo that contains a combination of any of pine cedar, bergamot, rosemary, lavender, eucalyptus, citronella, juniper or geranium. Before you wet down your pet here’s a handy trick to ensure that you are successful in killing all of those nasty fleas. Know going into this process that as soon as you wet the animal down, those fleas are going to run for higher and dryer ground; this means they will flea (no pun intended) to the head area. You should never douse your pet’s head with water and certainly not soap, so in order to prevent the fleas from escaping make sure that you first pour a thick layer of the shampoo all around the head and neck area; as close to the top of the head and underneath the chin area as you can get. Pour small amounts of water with your hand onto the soapy area and spend some time building up a thick, soapy barrier that will kill the fleas that attempt to pass through it. Proceed by wetting down and lathering up the rest of the animal’s body while frequently returning to massage and re-lather the neck area. Fleas are very difficult to kill and it is better for your pet if you can handle the problem with one good bath rather than several of them, so be sure to leave the shampoo on for at least 15 minutes or more while continuing to massage the soap deep into the animal’s fur. Rinse the animal thoroughly and dry it off well, especially during cold weather.

If you are also dealing with a house infestation of fleas, here’s a great way to get rid of the problem. Mix together 1 1/2 pounds of diatomaceous earth, 1 1/2 pounds of natural borax and 1 cup of salt. (Don’t use the earth and borax that you can purchase at a pool store, rather use the products that you can get from your local garden store.) The diatomaceous earth works because it contains very tiny particles that have sharp spines, which puncture the exoskeleton of the flea, killing it. The borax and salt work by absorbing the moisture of the flea and make all of those cracks and small areas that they might find to live in your home much more undesirable. You can use the mixture by sprinkling it throughout your home onto carpets and into those harder to reach areas. Allow the mixture to sit for a couple of days and then vacuum it up. Although these powders are not poisonous it’s never a good idea for you or your pet to breathe it continually for days so if it’s possible to go elsewhere while it sits then that’s definitely an option you should use. Alternatively, if you prefer not to douse the house with the mixture, you can always pour it into your vacuum cleaner bag and vacuum everything thoroughly so that any of the sucked up fleas will die inside the bag. Keep in mind that this solution will not kill the un-hatched flea eggs and therefore the process may need to be repeated several times depending on the severity of your problem."

 

Master Gardener News
by Ann Warwick, Bonner County Master Gardener

Summer is here, and North Idaho gardens are bursting with fresh veggies, berries, and fruit, colorful flowers, and lush green everywhere. The U of I Bonner County Master Gardeners are busy helping to promote all this bounty in myriad ways. The plant clinic, located at the extension office by the fairgrounds, is staffed on Tuesdays and Thursdays with volunteers who are dedicated to helping local gardeners diagnose and cure the garden problems they encounter. The service is free and open to all. The Learning Garden, located by the extension office, is a demonstration vegetable garden displaying methods of growing produce, including season extenders, several types of raised beds, compost bins, and other ideas. The garden is open for self guided tours all the time. A box containing leaflets explaining the gardening techniques is located at the front of the garden.

Members of the Master Gardeners participate in various gardening activities throughout the community. They help keep the hospital Healing Garden a lovely and comforting source of solace for those who have friends or relatives undergoing treatment in the hospital. They assist in maintaining the Mickinnick Trail, which is a delightful place for residents and visitors to the area to experience the wonders of our beautiful environment and all the native plants that proliferate here. With the Native Plant Society, they help the community showcase our amazing variety of native plants at the Native Plant Arboretum, located in Memorial Park, by the museum. MGs also help develop and mentor community gardens, which are springing up at schools, in lots around town, and wherever people gather who wish to grow their own food in a spirit of common interest and enthusiasm.

The annual Bonner County Fair will have Master Gardeners manning another (award winning?) booth demonstrating their services and opportunities for those who are interested in joining this dynamic group.

WATER MOST PRECIOUS - Though we occasionally complain about an overabundance of rain and snow, we are exceptionally lucky to live in a region where water is plentiful. We have lakes, streams, and green of all shades everywhere we look. We need to appreciate such bounty, as many in this world must face each day wondering if they will make it through the day without dying of thirst, or are forced to drink water that is contaminated, or must walk miles for a meager jug of the life giving liquid.

Because we are so fortunate, we should do all we can to avoid wasting or contaminating the water we share with everyone around us or downstream from us. What can we do to help? Here are a few suggestions.

Lawns. Yes, we all love to see an inviting expanse of green, carpet-like grass, but lawns are a huge consumer of water, and the chemicals required to keep them weed free and intensely green can be harmful to the environment, as they inevitably leach into the ground water. To decrease the amount of fertilizer and weed killers used, mulch mow the lawn rather than removing the clippings. This will reduce the need for water, and can suppress the emergence of weed seeds. Keep the lawn away from waterways and beach frontage by providing a barrier of native shrubs and grasses to filter the runoff from the lawn area. Avoid hard surface areas, such as pavement, near the water. Again, a barrier of native plants will help reduce the contaminant filled water that runs directly into lakes and streams. Better yet, reduce the size of lawn area and replace it with low maintenance plants that don’t need constant watering.

Garden areas. Perennial beds should be heavily mulched to maintain moisture. A side benefit is that this practice also suppresses weeds and looks neat and tidy. Drip systems for hydration conserve water and deliver it directly to the plant, where it is needed. In vegetable gardens, use soaker hoses or drip systems to provide water, and mulch with straw, compost or grass clippings (untreated). This will protect the plants from extremes of wet and dry, and will suppress weeds. The straw or clippings will break down over time and add to the soil quality, assuring an even better garden in following years.

Above all, be thankful for our water and the green environment it supports.

 

Weeds
by Diane Green / Greentree Naturals

The wet cool spring seemed to be exactly what the weeds needed to thrive. I’ve never seen the grass grow so fast or the weeds in such abundance! We spend a portion of every day weeding in our gardens and this is a task that everyone that grows a garden needs to get used to. Weeding can be an enjoyable process just by the sense of accomplishment that you feel in being able to have a clear visual of improvement in the garden. You can almost hear the remaining plants sigh with relief once the weeds have been removed. Personally, I like weeding and it’s a good thing because there is always something that needs to be weeded. Of course, when they are abundant, it can get a little overwhelming, but you just do a little bit every day and sooner or later the entire garden has been weeded. And then, well, you start all over again.

Weeds are often simply native plants that happen to be growing where you would rather have something else grow. On our farm, Johnny Jump-ups are everywhere and considered a weed along with the sucker plants of our giant Rugosa rose and raspberry plants; there are always poppies, lettuce and mustards popping up in odd places from plants that we were saving seeds from but didn’t quite get around to collecting all of them last fall. Of course, we also have all of the other standards that everyone else has in Bonner County. Weeds can blemish the look of a flowerbed, rob valuable nutrients from the soil, compete for sunlight and can be a general nuisance. If you don’t keep up with them, they can be even more troublesome to get rid of. While they can be difficult to get under control, don’t lose hope, it just takes a little persistence and know-how. You do not have to resort to chemicals or herbicides to manage your weeds, but it will take time and dedication to keep things under control.

On any organic garden or farm, particularly newly cultivated ground, it is likely that weed control commands a major part of the gardeners’ time over the course of the season. We spend a minimal of three hours every single day weeding. Why is this so important? There are several reasons:

Weeds compete with crops for water, soil nutrients and sunlight. In general, weeds are much more aggressive and successful at fighting for these needed elements, and cultivated plants suffer with poorer health and lower yields. Plants that are weak from weed competition are also more prone to diseases and insect damage.

Weeds can severely impede air circulation around crops. This can create very humid conditions that promote fungal growth and plant diseases.

Weed pressure can lower the marketability of crops. Fruits and leaves that rub against weeds are easily damaged and can lose their marketability. Insect and moisture problems associated with weedy crops can easily blemish fruits and leaves of crops.

Unmanaged weeds can provide habitat and a food source for many crop pests. On the other hand, carefully selected plant species, grown among your crops, can provide food and shelter for a wide variety of beneficial and predatory insects.

There is no set schedule for weed control, but there are a few general "rules of thumb" that can make the task less of a chore and more successful.

The sooner the better! Weeds are easiest to knock back when they are small (preferably before you even see them).

It is often best to mow larger weeds rather than pull them. The root systems of weeds can intertwine with those of the crop, slowing the growth of or injuring the crop when they are pulled.

Do not allow weeds to go to seed! This is difficult, but many weeds create thousands of seeds on each plant creating a weed seed bank in your soil that can last for decades. The rule is, let a weed go to seed and you will have them for seven years! If you can’t get around to pulling them out, mow them down or at least pull the flower tops off.

Mulch as soon as you get an area weeded. Use lots of mulch. As long as mulch is applied thick enough to keep sunlight from reaching the soil, it will keep new weeds from sprouting. You can use grass clippings, shredded and chipped branches, beauty bark, straw, old hay, leaves or compost.

Quote: A weed is a plant that has mastered every survival
skill except for learning how to grow in rows.- Doug Larson

 

Live Off Your Land - Fifteen Steps You Can Take to Get Out of the Cubicle and Onto Self-Reliance
by Sue Merriam (www.organic-gardening-and-homesteading.com)

Want to live off your land? More people are pursuing a lifestyle of self-reliance, depending upon themselves for their food and making a living by homesteading. If you long to get off the office treadmill and onto your own land, here are fifteen crucial steps you should take to pursue your life of freedom:

1. Get out of debt -- As any farmer will tell you, unless you own a corporation with hundreds, if not thousands of acres, you won’t make a fabulous income living off the land. Those farmers who do own hundreds of acres and thousands of dollars worth of equipment (along with the mortgages to prove it) are struggling to get by. The secret is to live simply and downsize. Sell that newer car with those high car payments and buy a used model, preferably with no payments. Stop eating out as much and use that extra money to pay off your loans.

2. Get some land -- You don’t need hundreds of acres, but if you want to live off your land, you will need at least five. You will want enough space for a good sized garden, along with some farm animals. Live in town? Consider selling or renting that house and buying a used manufactured home set on a small acreage instead. Many people do it and live quite comfortably - and debt free.

3. Learn to grow your own food -- Put in a lot of raised beds and grow potatoes, carrots, tomatoes and other vegetables. Learn to preserve your food through canning, drying and freezing, so that you go to your pantry instead of the grocery store, cutting down on cost and time.

4. Raise chickens -- These wonderful birds will supply you with eggs, meat, and even income if you raise enough of them. Fresh chicken eggs are easy to sell. These eggs are delicious, and if they come from chickens who have eaten mostly grass and insects - chickens who live in chicken tractors, for example - they are also far healthier and more valuable than the store-bought brand.

5. Get your goat -- Goats will supply you with milk, meat and cheese. Control their diet - only hay and grains - and your goat’s milk will taste exactly like cow’s milk, only sweeter. Plus, many people are realizing the health benefits of raw goat’s milk, making it a marketable product. Get two or three female goats - or does - along with a billy goat, and you will have enough milk for your family and some extra to sell to cover your cost.

6. Diversify what you sell -- Many people who try living off the land make the mistake of raising a single product in large supply and then selling it. But if the crop fails, then you are in trouble. Instead, raise a small supply of several items to sell. Sell chicken eggs and goat’s milk, honey and produce when it’s in season. That way if one item fails to produce, you have others to fall back on.

7. Avoid the exotic -- A few years ago, raising ostriches were all the rage. At least they were until those raising them realized not many people are willing to eat ostrich meat. It is far wiser to stick with the standard fare - chickens, pigs, and beef, for example. Raising something unusual and hoping to get rich off it - like many get-rich-quick schemes -usually leaves you with an empty pocketbook and an animal nobody wants and you have to feed.

8. Raise only what you want to eat -- This goes with the ostrich example above. If you don’t sell those hundreds of bushels of Swiss chard, then be prepared to eat them. If you don’t enjoy them that much, then don’t grow them.

9. Be prepared to learn a new trade -- My grandfather was a plumber, and even during the depression, he prospered. During hard times, people might not need an insurance adjuster, but they will need someone who can fix their leaky pipes. Consider learning carpentry, electrical work or mechanics. Learn to make practical, useful items that you can sell or barter with.

10. Simplify -- Do you really need three television sets? They use electricity even when they are not running. How about that 3,000 square foot home? Do you really need all that space, and all that clutter you accumulated to fill it? Learn to live on less. Cleaning and protecting all those things simply takes up precious time and money. [Perhaps move to a smaller and less expensive house with a smaller mortgage obligation if the time isn’t right yet to make the "big leap". The literal meaning of the word mortgage in French is "death pledge" -- think about it!]

11. Give up driving -- You won’t be able to homestead successfully if you are driving into town everyday for one thing or another. If you are a soccer mom and trying to homestead, you are going to become exhausted in a hurry. Caring for livestock is a full time job that requires you to spend a lot of time on your land. Plus, the gas and wear and tear on your car is expensive. If you don’t like staying at home, the homestead life may not be for you.

12. Don’t go it alone -- Don’t try to homestead by yourself. Accidents can happen, and when you live in the country, there will be few neighbors who will hear you call for help. If you are single, consider finding one or two like-minded individuals who will room with you and share expenses.

13. Join a community -- Find others in your area passionate about homesteading. Look for a local online group or start one. Go to your nearby feed store and see if they offer classes on animal husbandry. Sign up for an organic gardening class. All of these will get you in touch with people who can share information with you and who will encourage you.

14. Give back -- Be willing to help those who are just starting out. There’s an old phrase that rings true: what goes around, comes around. Make certain that what goes around from you is positive, rather than negative.

15. Embrace hard work -- The homestead life is wonderful, but it does involve a lot of hard, physical labor. You will be lifting hay bales, roping contrary critters and moving chicken tractors. I personally love the hard work (and the great sleep I get each night), but if you prefer a desk job, then naturally, the homesteading life probably isn’t for you.

Think you can do these fifteen things? Then start working on getting out of debt and go forward! A life of freedom and purpose awaits you.

"Today’s mighty oak is just yesterday’s nut that held its ground." - Anonymous

 

Ancient Wisdom for Modern Health: Pumpkin Seeds Expel Parasites
by: Melissa Sokulski

(NaturalNews) In ancient China, people used an herb called Nan Gua Zi - pumpkin seeds - to expel parasites, especially tapeworm and roundworm. Today parasites may be more of a problem than commonly thought. In Healing With Whole Foods, Paul Pitchford writes, "Various parasites infect a major percentage of the population." He mentions that pinworms, roundworms, and tapeworms can proliferate in a weak digestive tract.

In Chinese Medicine, pumpkin seeds are considered to have a sweet and bitter taste, and so influence the Large Intestines and Stomach. Research has shown that both a decoction (strong tea) and powders of pumpkin seeds have been effective against tapeworm and other parasites in animals.

Parasites can often be detected by live blood cell analysis by a trained technician looking at a drop of live blood under a special microscope. Even without special analysis, parasites may be suspected in many cases. The following are symptoms which could indicate parasites:

• general weakness
• emaciation
• voracious appetite
• white coin-sized blotches on the face
• nose picking
• anal itching (especially at night)
• cravings for sweets, dried food, raw rice, dirt, charcoal and burned food

Winter squash and pumpkin seeds share the same properties. In addition to expelling parasites, they are high in zinc and omega-3 fatty acids. When next preparing butternut or other squash, save and rinse the seeds. Allow them to air dry, or toss with olive oil and salt and bake at 350 degrees for about 20 minutes.

Pumpkin seeds can also be found in the supermarket. Known as pepitas, they are hulled and are a green color with a delicate texture and taste. To be effective against parasites, pumpkin seeds can be eaten regularly in a variety of ways:

• raw or roasted
• made into tea by boiling 3 cups of water with 2 Tbsp of pumpkin
seeds for 30 minutes
• made into pumpkin seed milk by blending 4 cups of water with
one cup of seeds and straining with a nut milk bag. Sweetener
can be added to taste.

The nutmilk can be used on cereal or as a base for smoothies. The seeds can be mixed with other nuts and dried fruits to be eaten as a snack.

Try this recipe for a tasty treat: Spiced Pistachio and Pumpkin Seeds

1 cup raw pistachio nuts (peeled, unsalted)
1 cup raw pumpkin seeds (pepitas), soaked at least four hours and rinsed
1 Tbsp lime juice
1 Tbsp chili powder
1 Tbsp tamari or nama shoyu

Toss all ingredients until well coated. Spread on dehydrator tray and dehydrate at 105 degrees for 6 hours, until dry. If you don’t have a dehydrator, place on cookie sheet in oven at 250 degrees for a couple hours.


 

Sprouting For Poultry
By Jon Porter

Are you familiar with the "Slow Food Movement" and the related current trend towards a healthier diet? You might want to check out http://www.slowfood.com to get more information on this subject. They have a goal to counteract the deleterious affects of fast food and fast life on us and our planet. In keeping with the "Slow Food Movement"and its wonderful eco-gastronomic intent, I have been investigating how to improve my families health by raising healthier poultry to enhance the quality and nutrition of our diet.

In addition to providing live greens for my flock including dandelion, comfrey, plantain, grass, and lambs quarter, I am sprouting for them a combination of whole wheat, whole oats and whole barley in buckets. Grain sprouts are powerful live foods with high nutrition. The chickens and turkeys love it! These birds are very happy and content, which I attribute in large part to their diet. Only about 1/4 of their diet is processed chicken feed.

I use whole wheat, whole oats, and whole barley because these seeds currently are not genetically modified. There are many who are concerned about the large amount of gluten present in wheat, but sprouting eliminates most of the gluten. I purchase the whole wheat and whole oats from the CO-OP in Sandpoint and whole barley from General Feed And Grain in Bonners Ferry.

The sprouting process

Materials and Preparation:

• I use two 5 gallon buckets with lids and handles such that one will fit inside of the other. The Co-op has some nice ones that will work just find.
• You will also need 3% hydrogen peroxide and fresh sprouting seed.
• Drill small drain holes into the bottom of bucket A. I use a 3/32" drill bit, but any size smaller than the size of the prouting seed will do. I don’t want the seeds to fall through the holes when we add water for sprouting. I drill about 30 holes for fast draining.

Sprouting:
1. Place bucket A (the one with the holes drilled in the bottom) into bucket B.
2. Fill bucket A (the inside bucket) 1/3 full of sprouting seed. I mix equal parts of whole wheat, whole oats, and whole barley.
3. Then fill the bucket 2/3 full with water. I don’t want to use hot water or freezing water. Anywhere in between is fine.
4. Add 1/4 cup of 3% hydrogen peroxide. The peroxide helps to deter the growth of any potentially harmful molds or bacteria that might be present in the buckets or have come with the seeds.
5. Place a lid on the top of the open bucket (bucket A) leave the buckets in a room temperature environment (60 to 70 degrees will do just fine) for 12 hours.
6. Drain the water from bucket A by lifting it out of bucket B. Well, now the usefulness of holes in the inner bucket should e clear. Rinse the seeds and drain again.
7. Place bucket A with the seeds back into bucket B.  Rinse and drain the seeds every 12 hours for two to three days. If the seed you use is fresh and viable, you will have wonderful sprouted grain to feed to your flock. I harvest the seeds when the sprouts are at least the length of the seeds. I may sprout other seeds that take longer to develop.
8. Be sure to thoroughly clean the buckets between each use.

My feed bills are reduced about 40% because of the sprouting and it only takes me about 5 to 10 minutes per day to do the deed. Happy sprouting.


 

Winning Blue Ribbons at the Fair
By Gretchen Heim Olson

Enter your best produce, most unique quilt or most high-quality livestock at the county fair this summer. Advice from seasoned blue ribbon judges can help increase your chances of bringing home a prize!

The blue ribbon. For more than a century country folk have made an annual pilgrimage seeking that coveted fair award, hoping to see it attached to their handsome livestock specimens or carefully tended garden produce.

Today’s men and women are just as interested in snagging the top prize as our peers of previous decades and, fortunately, it’s easy to "go for the blue" even if you’ve never entered the gates of a fair before.

Follow the advice of our judges and you’ll be in the running for No. 1.

First in the Class
No matter what you’re planning to show at the fair, all the experts begin by sharing the same important information: Everything you take to the fair will be entered in a class and each class of exhibits has standards that must be followed.

Those rules and guidelines are very specific, so ignoring them can lower your place or even disqualify you from the competition before you’ve begun.

Your first job, then, is to find out what the standards are for the items you’d like to take to the fair. Learn class standards.

Five Keys to Blue Ribbons --

1. Practice, practice, practice--perfectly.
2. Register in the proper category.
3. Listen to the judges.
4. Enter clean and neat.
5. Have fun!

The county or state fair office in your area can help, as can the friendly staff employed with university extension services. Industry-specific clubs and organizations, such as livestock associations or garden societies, are also excellent resources.

The second step is more extensive and involves learning the details about standards in a particular category.

In every class—from lemon cake to llamas—you’ll find that judges are looking for the same qualities in each entry within the group; those are the ones you must strive to meet. Livestock, for example, should represent well the variety or breed being shown.

"... long-term preparation is the most important and most common characteristic among award-winning exhibitors."

Exhibitors taking fruits and vegetables to the fair need to know how to identify the best examples of the varieties they are showing.

Look, Listen and Learn
Reading breed standards and learning the rules that govern a class will give you a basic education in fair competition. But there is no substitute for actually visiting exhibitions and looking closely at which exhibitors win and which do not.

With textiles and other domestic classes, stand back and note the overall impression made by the blue ribbon entries. In produce, take time to compare different entries in the same class, and see if you would have chosen the same specimens as the judges. In all areas of fair competition, if you can chat with judges or exhibitors, do so, or find out when you can make contact after the show. Back at home, seek out experts in your community. Don’t forget to use the knowledgeable folks at university extension offices and industry organizations, who are available throughout the year.

Gardeners should to enter normal-looking specimens and to leave vegetables shaped like space aliens or Aunt Marge at home. "It can be different," he says, "as long as it’s attractive. There are tomatoes that are really beautiful because of color variations."

Failing to Plan
All our judges note that a willingness to spend significant time in long-term preparation is the most important and most common characteristic among award-winning exhibitors. Although fair season is short, blue ribbons go to those who have worked year-round on their entries.

Most quality produce and animal exhibits have been thought out carefully, they say, then managed well in the days leading up to the competition.

For garden exhibitors taking produce to the fair the in summer, that means planning selections in the dead of winter while digging through seed catalogs.

It is recommended that you give yourself lots of choices, especially if you’re new to exhibiting. "I would grow something that has a large population," like carrots, he says. Then "you can actually go through and choose nice ones."

Come to the Fair!

1. Boundary County Fair - Aug. 18-21
2. Bonner County Fair - Aug. 24-28
3. Sander Country Fair Montana - Sept. 1-5

Make Fair week a week of holidays. The relaxation from care and labor to the husband, wife, and children will be beneficial.

If possible, take something for competition and if successful, it will aid in paying your expenses. In any event it will pay to spend the time in examining the best products and animals, learning the best methods, comparing notes, meeting friends and new acquaintances.

In many ways you will become better yourselves and help others to become better.

In the home economics department, level of proficiency becomes obvious on judging day. The blue ribbon entries are always the result of significant work in the months prior to the fair.

"Watch your details," says Marilyn Withrow, a veteran show judge of quilts from Oregon, "and use that old ‘frog stitch’ when necessary--you know, rippit, rippit, rippit--and start over."

Read the Directions Before You Start
Even when you know the class standards and have worked hard to reach them, our judges say that as fair time approaches, new exhibitors frequently put themselves out of the running by failing to register entries in the proper classes or by ignoring directions given for judging.

In the weeks prior to opening day, every exhibitor should begin by making sure their entries are in the fair class best-suited for them. This is good advice no matter what type of product or animal you may be entering.

One of the biggest mistakes quilters make is "entering their quilt in the wrong category." Many times, she has to note "would have done better in the proper category" because textiles can’t be moved between classes, even by judges.

"You should definitely check for guidelines and rules before you enter," reminds Vinci. In produce, he points out, sample size is very important. If the rules state that exhibitors should show only five carrots or one head of broccoli in a display, then they must do that, he says, or the entry will be disqualified.

Inexperience also hurts newcomers in the show ring, says Threet, who lists "not following directions, not listening to the judge for instructions and not following posted patterns" as top errors made by exhibitors. "These are very simple mistakes," she says. "All it takes [to remedy them] is paying very close attention at the show."

The Ribbon is in the Details
At the fair, every judge looks for that outstanding exhibitor or entry; the one they say is instantly appealing, but also holds up under closer scrutiny.

With quilts, Withrow evaluates quickly the "overall appearance: Does the quilter use the principles of design; are her colors pleasing together; is it an innovative quilt or a traditional pattern?" Beyond the big picture, she looks very carefully at the quality of stitching, thread choices, sewing of appliqués and, especially, whether or not the quilt lies flat, as it should.

Judges of livestock entries, also, will spend time looking beyond the obvious. "When an animal walks into the ring, the first thing I see is the fleece," says Klein. "The rest of my examination is only to substantiate and verify my first impression."

And the Winner Is …
Our judges clearly know what they’re looking for in their class entries, but they also admit that final ribbon placement can be tough. Klein hopes exhibitors understand how hard judges work to give blue ribbons to the deserving: "In the show ring, someone has to be first and someone has to be last," she says. "Often there is little difference between the two."